Montana Casting Co. News & Blog

The Little Brookie that Flew - A Fly Fishing Story by Hannah Dreesbach

I was in elementary school when my father first put a fly rod in my hand. We were in the Tizer Basin, walking a small, tumbling stream pock-marked by boulders. It was the sort of place that would leave any kid itching to explore. Fallen logs became bridges across deep holes. Crowded fir trees created pockets of shadow that hid lichen-covered stones and half-decayed stumps. I could have spent the entire day roaming the woods, inventing games beneath the shade of the trees. But my dad had brought me there to fish, and so I resigned myself to the tedious task of casting a bright little dry into the water over and over again.

I didn't think much about line placement or where the fish might actually be, even though I’m sure my dad offered wisdom on both of these subjects. For the most part, I tried to copy his movements (after all, he was actually catching fish). More often than not, I wound up with my line wrapped around an overhanging willow or snagged on a limb. The day, it seemed, was destined to be frustratingly fishless.

I suppose Mother Nature took pity on me: between snags, I managed to hook a single brookie—so small I didn't even feel it on the end of my line. When I went to recast, it sailed out of the water, past my head, and back in—unhooking itself in the process. I let out a shout. I’d caught a fish! I was a real fly fisherman, just like my dad.

It was a small moment in the scheme of things, but looking back, years later, I can’t help but smile. These days, I look forward to afternoons on the water, fly rod in hand, exploring the twists and turns of the river. I have my dad to thank for that. My dad and one tiny, miraculous brookie.

Questions? Comments? A story of your own first time on the water? Share in the comments below!

Which fly line is right for you?

The answer to that question can depend on a slew of factors, including the species of fish you plan to chase, the flies you plan to fish with, the conditions you’ll be fishing in, the action of your fly rod, and your own personal casting style.

I can already hear my son, Staiger, asking me to get to the point—“Let’s just go fishing already!” So let’s start with the short answer: you can buy just about any fly line for the designated weight of your rod and you’ll be ready to hit the water. If the short answer was all you wanted, then you can stop reading here. Have fun out there!

The long answer gets a bit more technical, and it involves a general understanding of a few different factors:

• The relationship between line weight and rod deflection
• How factors such as target species, fly casting ability, and fly rod action affect your ability to build energy behind a fly
• The ways in which different tapers can influence your cast

For those of you interested in understanding the differences between fly lines and why you might choose one over the other, this is the first in a three-part series that will dive into the nitty-gritty of all things fly line. In today’s post, we’ll touch on the first two bullet points in our list above.

What’s the connection between fly line weight and fly rod weight?

It’s easy to get deep into the weeds while discussing line weight, but we’ll start with some basics. The American Fly Fishing Trade Association (AFFTA) specifies a fly line’s weight based on the first 30 ft of a fly line minus the level line. (Level line refers to the section of line leading up to the beginning of the taper of the head of the fly line—more on that in the section on taper!)

The mass of the first 30 ft of line is measured in grains or grams. One grain is equal to 1/7000th of a Ib. One gram is equal to approximately 15.5 grains.

At its simplest, line weight refers to a number between 1 and 15 that corresponds with the range of line masses that will optimally load a rod of the same number.

To determine what fly line weight will allow for optimal loading of a rod under average conditions, we use a system called the Common Cents System (CCS).

What is the Common Cents System and how is it used?

The CCS makes the broad assumption that a rod is loaded when, fixed by its grip on a horizontal support, its tip has flexed vertically downward one third of the total length of the rod (not including the reel seat and cork). Therefore, if you know how many inches you need your rod tip to deflect vertically from the horizontal position, you can determine how much weight it will take to achieve a loaded state. The CCS does this with standard U.S. pennies and, through a series of conversions, allows you to determine the proper line weight for any given fly rod.

Let’s walk through an example. If you have a 9-foot fly rod that is 108 inches in total length, you’ll want to start by subtracting the length of the reel seat and cork—generally around 11 inches. This gives you a rod length of 97 inches. Now divide that by three and you’ll get 32.3 inches. 32 inches is the amount of deflection (flex) the rod needs to have from a level position in order to be loaded.

Next, you’ll hang a plastic bag with a paperclip to the end of the fly rod and see how many pennies it takes to give the rod that 32 inches of deflection. In this example, let’s say it takes 43 pennies. You’ll need the conversion table below to convert the number of pennies into its corresponding rod/fly line weight. If it takes 43 pennies to deflect the rod 32 inches, then the rod will (in theory) load most efficiently with a 5 weight fly line.

The CCS conversion table also allows you to convert the number of pennies into a number of other metrics that pertain to your fly rod’s performance, such as the Effective Rod Number (ERN)—a measure of your fly rod’s general power or backbone. Continuing with our example, 43 common cents (or pennies) correspond with an ERN of approximately 5.5—meaning it’s a mid-range 5weight fly rod. (All rods with ERN values ranging from 5.0 to 5.99 can be considered 5 weight rods; of course, the higher the ERN number, the closer you get to being a 6 weight fly rod. Conversely, the lower the ERN number, the closer your rod gets to being a 4 weight).

You’ll also see Defined Bending Index (DBI), which is a combination of the rod’s ERN and Action Angle (AA). Generally speaking, the higher the ERN, the greater the power. The higher the AA, the faster the action. Thus, DBI is a metric that allows for a swift comparison of the relative power and action of any fly rod.

Why do we care about line weight (or, more accurately, mass)?

While the Common Cents System gives us a good basis for determining what fly line weight works for a given rod under average conditions, you won’t necessarily be contending with average conditions on the water. The weight of your fly, the weather, the distance you need to cast, and your skill level can all influence which line will help you achieve optimal loading.

Let’s think about energy for a moment. A good cast is all about building potential energy and converting it into the right amount of kinetic energy to launch your fly across the water and land the perfect presentation. If you want to get into the physics of it, kinetic energy (or the energy of motion) is determined by the following equation:

Kinetic Energy = (½)mv^2

This means there are two important factors to consider in your cast: how much mass (m) you’ve got in your fly line and how much velocity (v) you can give that mass. The more you have of either one of these, the more kinetic energy you’ll have driving your fly forward.

We can apply this concept by first thinking about the mass of your chosen fly. Since the fly line is what ultimately propels your fly forward, a larger fly will need a heavier fly line to generate the energy needed to cast it effectively. The same thought process goes for windy conditions: if you’re fighting the wind, you will need to generate more energy to overcome the wind. Therefore, a heavier line will likely be ideal for windier conditions.

That said, if you’re a skilled caster or have a faster action rod and can generate a lot of line speed, you may not need as heavy of a line to generate the same amount of kinetic energy as someone who is less experienced or working with a softer action fly rod.

Practically speaking, this might look like choosing a line that is one weight class above or below the AFFTA recommended weight, depending on your needs. If you’re just getting into fly fishing, however, it’s probably best to stick with the line weight corresponding with your rod weight—after some time on the water, you’ll start to feel where you might need a heavier or light line weight.

In our next post about fly lines, we’ll dive into taper—what is it and how does it impact your cast?

Disclaimer: Yes, we have mercilessly dissected and weighed many fly lines over the years to get our fly rods and fly lines to be exactly what we want them to be. I know it's terrible, but it was done in the name of science! 

Have questions? Want to talk shop? We’re always happy to chat. Leave a comment below, send us an email at gethookedup@montanacastingco.com, or give us a call at 406-285-1452. Happy fishing!

Rigging Your New Fly Fishing Rod & Reel

The big day is here; you finally have your new dream fly rod and reel in hand. The excitement is almost too much to handle! You're daydreaming about the river, campfires, sharing stories with friends, and, of course, fish—BIG FISH. If you’re going to make those big fish dreams a reality, there’re some important choices to consider when rigging up your new fly-fishing outfit. 

Setting Up Your Fly Reel and Line

If you purchase a Montana Casting Co. Fly Rod Outfit through our Outfit Builder, we will ask the following questions to ensure that we spool your reel correctly:

What hand do I reel with - left or right? 

This impacts which direction the backing and fly line needs to be spooled onto the reel. It is also important to ensure that the drag system works appropriately for whichever hand you reel with.

When attaching your leader, what do you prefer?

1. Attaching the loop on your leader directly to the welded loop on your fly line, or…
2. Adding a butt section (a 2-foot length of monofilament) and then tying your leader to the butt section with a blood knot?

There’s pros and cons to each method. Loop to loop makes it faster to change your leader, and you can attach a sink tip that changes your floating line into a sink tip line. Butt sections are more performance-oriented; they facilitate a more efficient transfer of energy down the fly line, through the leader and into the fly. If you use Amnesia (a bright red or yellow) for the butt section, you can fish without a strike indicator—a huge benefit when you’re after extra spooky fish.

Setting Up Your Leader and Tippet

With backing and fly line on your new reel and your Outfit in hand, it’s time to decide how you’ll rig your leader. There are hundreds of variables involved in rigging your leader: the species you’re fishing for, the water conditions, temperature, what insects are hatching, and fishing style (nymphing, fishing dries, or stripping streamers) to name a few. The list can go on indefinitely, which is a big part of the allure of fly fishing—there’s always more to learn. For the sake of this blog article, we’ll try to keep things simple. You can (and will likely want to) modify these suggestions depending on the conditions you're fishing in.

Fishing Dry Flies:

This is the easiest to rig but the most difficult to fish when trying to get the perfect presentation.

1. We prefer a 9-foot monofilament (Mono) leader for fishing dries.
2. Tie on 24 inches of the appropriate size Monofilament Tippet; Mono floats better than Fluorocarbon (Fluoro) and is less expensive.
3. Pick your fly and tie it on with a Clinch Knot, put some floatant on the fly and start fishing.

Nymphing:

This rig is used to catch fish subsurface in rivers and lakes. In Montana, it’s common to use two flies—you’ll want to check the recommendations and regulations pertaining to the region you’re fishing in.

1. Attach a 7.5-foot Mono leader to your fly line or butt section.
2. Attach your strike indicator on the thicker end of the leader, closer to your line or butt section.
3. Cut off approximately 18 inches of your new leader and tie on a tippet ring or micro swivel.
4. Tie an 18-inch length of Fluoro tippet to the tippet ring or micro swivel. (Fluoro sinks and is virtually invisible underwater, making it perfect for nymphing.)
5. Tie your first fly to the bottom of the Fluoro tippet.
6. Tie a 24-inch length of Fluoro tippet to the bend of the hook of your first fly.
7. Tie your second fly to the end of the new length of Fluoro tippet.
8. Add some non-lead split shots to your leader to help it sink down to where the fish are. We like to put a B-size split shot above the tippet ring and another in between our flies.  You may need to add or remove a split shot to get the depth correct. Our rule of thumb on freestone streams: the nymphs should bounce across the bottom or be very close to it.

Streamer Fishing:

This rig mimics a minnow or wounded bait fish. Often, this technique results in large fish crushing your fly. In other words, if you’re looking for big fish and only big fish, tie on a streamer.

1. Shorten your leader to only 3 or 4 feet long.
2. Tie on a heavy piece of Fluoro tippet, like 3X.
3. Tie on your streamer and go fishing.

When streamer fishing, you can use a floating line, add a removable sinking tip to the end of your fly line, or use a sinking fly line. Streamer fishing is fun and very visual—a fully stocked streamer fly box is like Mardi Gras! Experiment with the endless patterns and find what works for you. A good rule of thumb is to keep your streamer about halfway between the surface and the bottom of the river while you strip, twitch, or wiggle it back to you. Stay on the lookout for that tell-tale flash and set the hook!

Conclusion

If you’re new to fly fishing, remember that part of the sport is expanding an ever-growing repertoire of skills. Even the best fly fishermen still have more to learn, so enjoy the process and don’t be afraid to trial and error your way to success. Those big fish daydreams are well within your reach.  

Still have questions? Drop them in the comments below or head over to our Contact Us page to reach out!

 

What is Fly Rod Weight?

At its simplest, fly rod weight is an indicator of a blank's stiffness: the higher the “weight”, the stiffer the blank. Typically, you will match a fly rod’s weight to the corresponding weight in fly line. A 4wt fly rod with a 4wt line, a 5wt rod with a 5wt line, and so on. (That said, there are some instances where you may want to overline your rod with a heavier fly line—such as pairing a 6wt line with a fast-action 5wt to fully load your rod on shorter casts.)

Fly rod weight is also a general indicator of the fly rod’s action and backbone. A lower weight will have a lighter action and less backbone, ideal for lighter flies and smaller fish. Conversely, a higher weight makes for a heavier action and the ability to handle larger flies and fish.

Fishing with a 9 ft 7wt Warm Springs Fly Rod

 

What size of a fly rod is right for you? 

Fly rods are designed to fit specific fishing conditions. For example, we might take a 4wt Craig—a smooth, medium-action fly rod—on a weekend of creek fishing in the mountains. On an upcoming saltwater adventure, however, we’d be looking at a 9wt rod with a fast action to handle larger flies, windy conditions, and monster fish. When selecting a rod weight, think about the species you’re targeting and the conditions you’ll need to cast in.

4wt – These fly rods are very light in the hand, perfect for shorter casts and smaller fish like brook trout. That said, don’t doubt the power of a 4wt. These light fly rods are perfectly capable of taking on a 5lb brown trout with a bad attitude!

5wt – Still quite light in the hand, these mid-range rods work well on smaller water (similar to a 4wt) but carry a bit more backbone. It’s one of the most commonly used weights in trout fishing, likely for its ability to handle most trout from small juveniles to solid eight-pounders.

6wt – This rod is comparable to a 5wt, but it is specifically designed for larger water and fish in the 7 to 12lb class. Don’t be afraid to use a 6wt fly rod for smaller saltwater fly fishing excursions. They work well for long fly casting on open water and can also be a great streamer rod.

7wt – This is where you start to get into the big boys. 7wt fly rods generally come with a fighting butt to handle hard-fighting fish like steelhead. It’s a great choice for saltwater adventures or big, Pyramid Lake Cutthroats. This is the most commonly used size for streamer fishing. Add an extended fighting butt, and a 7wt becomes a lethal weapon!

8wt – 8wt fly rods are most commonly used for big fish on big water. We use this powerful fly rod for pike fishing, as pike are known to crush your streamer and go head-first into the weeds. You’ll be glad you have the extra power to pull them out of Neptune's quagmire while mumbling a few choice words!

9wt – Nothing says big dog like a 9wt fly rod! 9wt fly rods are frequent companions for fly fishermen heading to the Florida Keys, Costa Rica, or other tropical locations in pursuit of bonefish, permit, or tarpon. These rods have the backbone for fighting monsters and the action for long casts on open water. If you’re looking at purchasing a 9wt, big water adventures are in the cards!

Every Montana Casting Co. fly rod is available in a 4wt through 9wt. Our 7wt, 8wt, and 9wt rods come with a removable fighting butt that can be replaced with a longer custom build fighting butt from 4 to 5 inches in length. This allows you to cast your rod Spey style or give it a switch rod feel.  

Questions, comments, upcoming fly fishing adventures? Share them in the comments below!

Example of standard and extended removable fighting butts.

 

 

Blood knots—complicated or simple?

Whether you’re grabbing your 4 wt fly rod for a weekend in the mountains or preparing for a trip to the salt flats, the blood knot is a worthy tool in any fly fisherman’s arsenal. To the inexperienced, they might appear complicated—but they don’t need to be. We’ve pulled together some tips and tricks to make tying this useful fly fishing knot simple.

When should you use a blood knot?

A blood knot, or—as the old timers used to call it—a barrel knot, is the best way to connect two pieces of tippet. This is especially true if your two pieces of tippet already have a fly tied to one end or if you're splicing in some tippet to lengthen your leader.

How to tie a blood knot:

A blood knot is fairly straightforward to envision; all it consists of are two pieces of tippet being twisted around each other ten times, with the end of each piece of tippet running back through the middle of those twists. 

The challenging part of a blood knot is getting the ends of the tippet back through the middle of the twists. So here’s a trick: start with an X. Beginning on one side of the X, take the free end of the tippet and twist it around the other tippet five times. Then, run the free end back through where the center of the ten twists will be (the side of the X that hasn’t been twisted yet). This will keep the middle of the twists open while you repeat the above steps on the other side of the X.

Since the first piece of tippet is already holding the middle of the twists open, you can run the second end of the tippet through the middle in the opposite direction of the first piece of tippet. Moisten the twists (this part is important to reduce friction when you are sinching down the knot), hold each end of the tippet, and pull; this will sinch everything down into a tight, barrel-shaped knot. 

Clip off one of the ends and leave the other long enough to tie on a dropper fly. This method gives you more life-like action—which means more fish eating your flies.

At the end of the day, we find that a good visual (and lots of practice) are the best ways to familiarize yourself with a new knot. Check out the video below for a helpful step-by-step walk through from Montana Casting Co. CEO Scott Joyner… Then grab your fly fishing rod and hit the river to give it a try!

To view other educational videos and see our gear in action, visit our Montana Casting Co. YouTube Channel. And be sure to check out our Spring Sale!

Fly Fisherman Magazine is featuring Montana Casting Co. and our Warm Springs Fly Rod in its April-May 2024 Issue!

Fly Fisherman loves gear with a story behind it, and Montana Casting Co. has that in spades. The article highlights our strengths as a home-grown, family-owned fly rod company as well as the heartfelt story of loss and healing that brought company founders Scott and Cat Joyner to where they are today.

Fly Fisherman called special attention to the Warm Springs fly rod. After testing it on a Pennsylvania spring creek, they referenced the “gritty” capabilities of the Warm Springs, deeming it ready for “almost anywhere you can find blue-collar trout, from big rivers to small streams in the mountains.”

The Warm Springs Fly Rod is our flagship fly rod. Designed by Scott Joyner in its entirety—from blank to guide placements, right down to the reel seat components—it balances performance with durability in one classy fish-wrangling package. Visit the Warm Springs product page to learn more about these performance fly rods.

You can sign up for a Fly Fisherman Magazine subscription to read the article online or look for the April-May 2024 issue in stores now!

We’re celebrating this milestone with 15% off all of our fly rods. Looking to pair your new rod with a fly fishing reel? We’ll give you 15% off the entire outfit when you use our Outfit Builder.

 

406 Fly Fishing Reels: Everything You Need to Know

Dive into the specs behind Montana Casting Co. fly fishing reels, our favorite uses for each model, and some useful pointers to ensure your reel is river ready.

Lite, Envy, Elite… What’s the difference between our fly reels?

Every Montana Casting Co.^® fly fishing reel is built from high quality, corrosion-resistant materials and boasts a sealed, micro-adjustable, Teflon-cork disc drag system. With three high-performing models to choose from there’s a few key considerations to take into account when you’re deciding which reel is best for you. 

Warm Springs fly rod paired with glacier blue Envy 406 fly fishing reel.

The Lite 406 Fly Fishing Reel

We achieved ultra-light durability in the Lite 406 with a mixed aluminum alloy and carbon fiber frame. For a 4/6 wt reel, that means balanced stopping power in a smart 5 oz package. Our lightest reel is also our smallest reel: the 4/6 wt has a 20 lb backing capacity between 50 to 75 yards. While the Teflon-cork disc drag system is water resistant, it is not 100% sealed—perfectly suited for a backcountry galivanting but not recommended for harsher salt water conditions.

The Lite 406 fly reel is a combination of aluminum and carbon fiber construction.

The Envy 406 Fly Fishing Reel

A touch heavier and a touch heavier-duty than the Lite, the Envy 406 4/6 wt comes in at 5.8 oz. Available in a flashy glacier blue or deep-water green, the Envy is 100% waterproof up to 3 ATM and has a baseline 20 lb backing capacity between 75 and 100 yrds. This is a great choice if you’re looking for a reel that can handle anything from a brookie to a steelhead with the same smooth response.

Craig fly rod paired with the Envy 406 fly fishing reel in deepwater green.

The Elite 406 Fly Fishing Reel

Far and away our highest performing fly fishing reel,  the Elite 406 is made from an extremely strong and corrosion-resistant zinc-aluminum alloy. If you’re getting ready to wrangle monster trout or saltwater species, the extra backing capacity, perfectly counter-weighted spool, and smooth stopping power of the Elite 406 are well worth a couple extra ounces in packing weight. Sealed up to 5 ATM, it’s also our most element-proof reel.

The Elite 406 fly fishing reel is sealed up to 5 ATM to keep water and grime out. 

How to change your fly fishing reel from right to left-hand retrieve:

Montana Casting Co.^® fly fishing reels are easily changed from left to right-hand retrieve. To reduce the paper usage and save a some trees, we've taken the time to produce two how-to videos. Though the Elite 406 requires a screwdriver, the video outlines simple instructions for making the switch.

Changing Retrieve on a Lite or Envy Reel 

Changing Retrieve on an Elite Reel

Behind the names of our fly fishing reels…

While the Lite, Envy, and Elite titles call out the unique personality of our individual models, all of our fly fishing reels are united by the 406.

406 means Montana. Just over a million people call the Big Sky state home, making Montana one of the last 12 states to possess a single area code. Montana is also the 4^th largest state in the nation, coming in at approximately 147,000 square miles. Public lands comprise roughly 30% of that area, encompassing 350 fishing access sites (three of which serve as the namesake for our fly rods), 7 national forests, 15 wilderness areas, 55 state parks, and two stunning national parks.

It is a privilege to call Montana home. To be inspired by its wide-open plains and rich histories. To be humbled by its rugged mountains and natural wonders. Designed, tested, and perfected on Montana waters, our fly fishing reels are a product of the wild places that feed our love of fly fishing.

Envy 406 Fly Fishing Reel (Deepwater Green) in action.

Want a closer look at one of our reels? Check out the reels page. You can view specs, access our outfit builder, or grab a spare spool for your next fly fishing adventure. 

Questions? Comments? Ruminations on the pros and cons of different fly reel designs? Share in the comment section below!

Hidden in Plain Sight - A Fly Fishing Story by Madelynn Pandis

Growing up in the mountains, I have always had a special place in my heart for mountain streams and creeks. The noise of water tumbling through the rocky creek bed paired with the fresh mountain air creates a near indescribable feeling of bliss. During the late summer months of July and August, most of the snowpack has melted from the high mountain peaks and the runoff has slowed, leaving a clean blue tint in the frigid water. The surrounding flora prospers around the water's edge, creating an ideal home for many different insects to thrive. These small creeks provide a rich environment for juvenile cutthroat trout, brook trout, and the occasional bull or brown trout.

It was late spring and the time had finally come. I had a few days off work and knew exactly what I was going to spend that time doing. I packed my rods, flies, and camper then headed for central Montana. A four-hour drive did not faze me. I was going to the place I envision heaven looks like. The Little Belt Mountains conceal healthy herds of deer and elk, the occasional black bear, and other iconic Montana game animals like the blue grouse. Also found in these mountains are a maze of ATV trails and dirt roads weaving through the peaks leading to various camping sites. These tend to be the elements that draw people to recreate in the Little Belts in the summer, but it seems that most fishing opportunities are often overlooked.

I arrived at my campsite for the night just before dark. I lit a fire and got dinner started. Listening to the pop and crackle of the slowly dying fire I mapped out a plan for the following day. Eventually, the dishes were done, and everything was tucked away for the night. I climbed into my Coleman sleeping bag and fell asleep to the smell of campfire smoke. I dreamt of the wild cutthroat I was hoping to catch the next day, a vivid scene playing over again in my head. In the morning, I woke up to the radiant sunlight fighting to get through my half-frosted windows. After having a cup of coffee and brushing my teeth, I headed out to start fishing. With the windows down and the music on, I drove to my starting point of the day, a trail of dust hanging behind me. I parked my truck and a rush of serotonin overwhelmed me. All the stresses and thoughts of the real world suddenly disappeared.

The first hole I wanted to fish was part of a small mountain creek. Hidden in a maze of lush vegetation, those who drive down the paralleled highway pay little to no attention to this section of water. I got out of my truck and started to prepare. I threaded my line through the eyelets of my rod. I took one look in my fly box and immediately knew what I would be fishing with. I tied on one of my favorite flies, the chubby Chernobyl. Even in the spring, the creek was far too shallow to efficiently fish a dropper, so I tied one shimmering purple chubby onto the end of my tippet. After running a quick double check of my backpack's contents, I was all set to start fishing. Just a few minutes later, not even twenty yards from the truck, I could already see the barely visible shadows of trout navigating the water’s robust current.

The shallow water depth meant these trout were extremely sensitive to movement, making it harder to cast up to them. Approaching the creek, I hid behind the thick bushes and tried to keep my shadow off the water. The compact trees overhead made it difficult to move the rod through the brush. I finally found a break in the foliage big enough to allow room for casting. I flipped the chubby upstream, painting the fly right across the noses of the overly eager trout. Without hesitation, the first trout struck. The fly twitched just before I saw a small splash of water drown my fly. I lifted the rod and felt a tight line. My rod tip danced for a few brief seconds and after a short battle I had the trout netted. It was a juvenile cutthroat, wearing a pattern of distinctive black spots starting on its back just behind its gills. As I looked along the length of the fish, the spots grew darker and larger in both size and number. Along the black spots were blue oval stamps that ran down both sides of the trout’s body. These faint blue blotches looked as though they could have been a product of a watercolor painting. And of course, as the name suggests, the fish had two blood red scores under its jaw, as if its throat had been cut. After taking a moment to admire the fish, I sent it back on its way. With a flip of its tail, the trout vanished into the steady flow of the current.

Madelynn holds up a juvenile cutthroat trout. 

I kept moving upstream with the same routine. Walk near a hole and look for the fishes’ shadows. Find some shrubbery to hide behind, cast over it, set the hook, and repeat. Despite the creek's small size, there were countless hiding spots to pull fish out of. From the bases of trees dipping below the watermark to seams where the water flooded over bigger rocks; you name it, there was a fish hidden there.

Eventually I saw the familiar white picket fence I always encounter when fishing here. Behind the fence was a tall, white, wooden tombstone. At the base of the grave marker, the name of a man who died in November of 1981 was painted black. It’s one of my favorite bends on the creek. I always walk over to visit the site; I can’t help but think he is the one awarding me with good luck. After a moment of silence, I continued upstream to a shady spot for lunch. With a full stomach, I decided it was time to head back to the truck and try out another trusty fishing hole.

I got back to my truck and laid my fishing stuff on top of the cot in the back of my truck. My cot is the same height as my tailgate when it is closed; when I laid my 10-foot rod on the 6-foot cot, the end of the rod stretched out past the end of my topper. I went and turned the air conditioner on in my truck and set a few things down on the seat, thinking of where to fish next. I then walked back to the tailgate and put everything up so that nothing would get loose while driving down the highway. When everything was secure inside the camper, I turned and shut the topper door.

A snap made my heart sink. I knew immediately that I had just broken a rod. I looked along the rubber skirt of the topper and there laid the last 3 eyelets of my rod smashed under the topper, pointing toward the ground. I opened my topper as fast as I could, hoping I somehow only bent my rod and that when I opened the topper it would straighten out. This was not the case; a clean break made its appearance at the end of my rod. Irritated with myself, I broke the rod down completely and put it in its case to avoid causing any further damage.

With morale low, I started the drive to a different creek that I knew was an exceptional hideout for brook trout. During the short 20-minute drive, I couldn’t help but replay the image of my rod breaking over and over. I knew that I had a second rod with me, so I tried to look at the positives: at least I still had a rod to continue fishing with. After parking at the second spot, I repeated the same routine as earlier. After threading my line through the eyelets of my second rod, I opened my fly box. While they're an aggressive species, a brook trout can only eat a fly so big. I looked through my foam flies and nothing caught my eye, so I singled out a purple haze. The purple haze would be big enough for me to see it on the water surface but small enough that the fish could scarf it down.

 I coated my fly in flotant once again and headed on my way. It had rained recently, maybe a week before I arrived, leaving left over puddles on the dirt path. A flutter of small butterflies danced from puddle to puddle, while others fanned their wings resting on the warm soil. Elk had also been using this path: they’d left a trail of concrete hoof tracks in the dried mud. I followed the elk tracks until I reached the first fishable pocket on the creek. Lacking trees and larger shrubs in the tall grass, there was a scarcity of places for me to hide. I left my backpack on the path and got on my hands and knees to crawl to the bend. I stayed as low as I could, trying to keep my shadow off the water. Just a few feet away from the water, I decided that I was close enough. If I crawled any closer, I was certain that I’d spook the trout.

I slung my fly just ahead of the tailwater at the bend. The fly tumbled with the current until it dumped into a smaller, slower pool. These brook trout were more cautious than the cutthroats; it took a dozen casts before I saw my first brookie. Arising from the depth of the pool, the brook trout hunted down my fly. After a quick glance on the way up, it pounced. I set the hook, and the fish was on. I netted it a short time later and got lost in its maze of patterns. Its head and back hosted an intricate pattern of dark markings, comparable to those of a leopard, and then faded into the yellow spots that were sprinkled across its flank. Its white and orange under belly paired with bright white stripes on its orange fins reminded me of a summer sunset. It’s amazing that such a bright fish can remain so well camouflaged in its environment. As soon as I lowered the fish to the water, it shot out of my hands and simply disappeared.

For the rest of the afternoon, I found myself bushwacking to access some incredible looking pockets. Targeting the brook trout was the same as targeting the cutthroats when reading the water, but it called for a more technical fishing style. One wrong mend or drift and the fish would refuse my fly. Despite the challenge, getting off the main road meant I had quite a bit of luck. With the evening settling in and the sunlight starting to diminish, I picked up my backpack and began walking back to the truck. I could still see the images of the brook trout ambushing my fly, coming from every direction with the ferocity of a much larger fish. Arriving at the truck, I made sure to completely break down my second rod and put it in a case before closing my topper to avoid the same careless mistake made earlier that day. The drive back to the campground was nothing short of relaxing. The cool breeze coming through the open windows mixed with the heat of my sunburn and left me feeling thankful for a full, successful day of fishing.

After I settled back into my campsite for the night, I grabbed a cold beer and a good book to unwind with. I settled into my hammock, dirt under my nails and dust stuck to my previously sweaty skin and began to read. I woke up to the noise of mosquitoes buzzing around my head and saw that my fire had died. I lazily got out of my hammock and crawled into my cot half-asleep. Despite my eagerness to do it all again the next day, it took not even 5 minutes to fall back asleep with the picture cutthroats and brookies swimming through my mind.